Skyleaders new build Stuka

That sheeting and the wiggly/flappy bits look superb. I, and many others are wishing we had the skill and patience to get that sort of finish..
Absolutely cracking John!!

Thanks Ray for the kind words i got so carried away i thought i was back at work in my joinery shop then realized I'm not getting paid still nice pastime

Do you mind "Glassing" John?
I've only done small amounts, to strengthen balsa or to fuel proof. Doing a whole planes gives me visions of lots of mess, sticky hands and a less than perfect finish with lots of snags in the cloth!
Do you coat the surface with resin, then let that go off, before applying more resin and the cloth or just put the cloth straight onto the first coat of resin?
Also, what method do you use to "wet" the cloth through....Squeegy, credit card, roll of toilet paper, etc?

I'd love to glass/paint a model, as the finish is tough, fuel proof and doesn't peel off! You can also use ANY colour you like!

John you are an Uber Master in wood - really superb.
Years of practice, no doubt, but it looks a very difficult subject. A "builders model" as they say.
On Ian's point above, I know I'm not noted for my building (hope to do more when I eventually do retire!) but I am an anorak about materials and methods.
I read about this stuff called Poly-C from RC World.co.uk, which is a water based PU substance that is said to be easier to apply as it's slower, air drying, is fuel proof and also goes a long way.
There is also good old fashioned solvent based Ronseal PU varnish, which seems to be used, probably again easier than GRP and is also fuel proof.
I doubt though if any of these PUs add quite the same surface strength as GRP so probably not as strong or ding-proof! And maybe don't take paint so well?
Perhaps one day I'll find out!
Just a thought............that's it - I'll go back into hibernation now

Are you doing the full glass method or like I did on the mustang "glass cloth and polyurethane varnish" as you have seen it looks as good as glass without the smell.

Worzey wrote:

Do you mind "Glassing" John?
I've only done small amounts, to strengthen balsa or to fuel proof. Doing a whole planes gives me visions of lots of mess, sticky hands and a less than perfect finish with lots of snags in the cloth!
Do you coat the surface with resin, then let that go off, before applying more resin and the cloth or just put the cloth straight onto the first coat of resin?
Also, what method do you use to "wet" the cloth through....Squeegy, credit card, roll of toilet paper, etc?

I'd love to glass/paint a model, as the finish is tough, fuel proof and doesn't peel off! You can also use ANY colour you like!

Ian you would have no problem glassing a model i use a two part mix which i weigh to get it spot on, a good way is to thin down the first coat with methylated spirit,this makes it easy to apply you cut and lay the glass cloth over the substrate ,then with a brush or credit card or indeed anything your comfortable with work the resin into the balsa wetting it through NOT to much just wet it down .
let it dry at lest over night then using a brush give a full coat to fill the weave that's showing, job done only rubbing down left

Ironside2.4 wrote:

Are you doing the full glass method or like I did on the mustang "glass cloth and polyurethane varnish" as you have seen it looks as good as glass without the smell.

Daron I'm doing the glass resin the one i use as no smell, it is much stronger than the water type vanish very easy to use the poly c stuff is only water based not very strong you can get ronceal diamond hard that's better if you go this route i used it in my woodwork sealing mdf boards

Picture of flap with glass cloth one thin coat applied




Aileron with first coat




after second seal coat a good rub down should look like this, and is now ready for primer filler coat

Ironside2.4 wrote:

Are you doing the full glass method or like I did on the mustang "glass cloth and polyurethane varnish" as you have seen it looks as good as glass without the smell.

Daron read your post a bit quick,i might be wrong but did you not use the fast drying water based poly c not polyurethane vanish there are two different bases the polyurethane smells quite strong and takes ages to dry ,the water base one ie modern vanish has no smell and dries in fifteen minutes

yeah my mistake.

Admin wrote:

yeah my mistake.

Been busy beavering away doing some boring stuff rubbing down and preparing the wing,i need this finished so i can fit it to the fuselage, so i can get the tail incidence right,then back on the fuselage



wing all glassed now and rubbed down top primed one guide coat

fitted to the fuss


and couldn't resist seeing on its feet you can see the dive brakes fitted they are none functional as i have been told they don't work

Awesome, that is going to be one impressive model.

TheHobman wrote:

Awesome, that is going to be one impressive model.

I think it will be Steve it was not my choice of model build, never liked the shape of the Stuka much,but as you all know it was one of John's he never got to start the more i work on it the more i like it ,i bet John's watching me

He probably is watching so make a good job of it or he"'ll do a Dave"on you, reckon he'd be pretty impressed so far!

looking great John! cant wait to see it finished!

The build is moving on quite well all the main construction is finished moving on to the detailing



managed to get the engine completely in side cowl with nowt sticking out



Very go access to the carb under the cowl



Made up a set of exhaust stacks and cut them through the cowl needs more work done on the rusty color yet


so its all primed up ready for the panel lines and rivets


[IMG]https://2img.net/h/i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii209/flyingjohn/plane.jpg[/IMG

Looking fantastic there Mr Chaman Sir!

Can I offer a piece of advice on your engine install???.... As you have managed to completely enclose your engine, put some balsa or light ply baffles between the air intake and the cylinder head, to help keep your head cool!!

By the time you've finished the Stuka, I think you won't have enough space in your hanger for it and the P-51. However, I may be able to offer some help!!

I didn't know Darth Vader flew Stukas




https://2img.net/h/i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii209/flyingjohn/frontveiew.jpg


Back in the days when he could only afford a see through helmet

A superb build by this man as always, the finish just on that glassing and primer is top quality let alone the detail on the finished aircraft yet to be seen 10/10 to a top builder at LMFC

The stuka is looking fantastic!
if you want real rust there is a product called Real Rust
I think I have some somewhere, it actually rusts plastic!
ill see if I can find it as I want to do some on the Spit!

Worzey wrote:

Looking fantastic there Mr Chaman Sir!

Can I offer a piece of advice on your engine install???.... As you have managed to completely enclose your engine, put some balsa or light ply baffles between the air intake and the cylinder head, to help keep your head cool!!

By the time you've finished the Stuka, I think you won't have enough space in your hanger for it and the P-51. However, I may be able to offer some help!!

Should have posted the front view of engine this is one installation that won't have a over heating problem the cylinder sits in the cowl chin dead in line with air intake ,I'm going to fit small ail tubes vertical spaced apart to form a grill looks like full size.

That's worked out a treat John Great when you can't see any part of the engine on a scale model Looking forward to seeing that fly. Still going for a desert camo scheme??

Nice Picture Gary.