Ngh 35cc

Been looking into 1st petrol engine purchace, that will go in my staudacher.
Ngh 35cc from just engines.
Maybe a little over powered but the extra weight would get rid of the useless lead.
Just wondered if anyone knows anything about them as can't find much about them in use.

Ian and i were talking about that engine just recently below is the post Ian sent me might help you decide

John

Don't know if you've heard of these, but they have just got a good review by Steve Dorling in one of the magazines.

http://www.rcpetrolengines.co.uk/ngh-gt35s-35cc-petrol-engine-100-p.asp

Ian

Brett

Apparently, there's been a recent review in one of the model magazines by Steve Dorling.

Sorry for not replying to your text on this subject the other day. In answer to your question, no, I have not run the Mintor 33 so cannot comment on it.

I think you'd struggle to find a bad DLE, DLA, etc, etc. The only bad things i've read about has been on RCGF and CRRC, although many people have had much success with them.

DLE have sold by the bucket load and have got a good reputation, although they are noisey.

Thanks guys
Its definitely ticking boxes for me for straight forwards swap of my glow motor and possible lower noise?(/dle)
But yeah Ian I was thinking that dle are strong in this area.
Decisions,decisions,decisions

The NGH 35 has some baffling in the muffler which will help in the "noise" area

The Mintor has no baffling but is apparently quieter than a DLE, but down on max power (maybe due to the quieter/more restrictive exhaust)

what is so noticeable with the petrol lumps (even "Electric Ray" commented on this) is the fact that on a 30-35cc engine you will need a 14-16oz fuel tank for a 15-20 minute flight, with nearly no exhaust mess and a gallon of fuel costs 7 quid plus a litre of good quality oil (about 20 quid a litre, but lasts a couple of seasons flying!).

Go for it Brett, you won't regret it!

I'm still looking at getting a petrol lump, leccey is great, but far too costly for the really big stuff

I'm thinking of going for the ngh for ease of conversion.
So apart from a new tank and fuel lines, do I need opto switch and will I need anything else.

Hi Brett as you said new tank and lines, you can sometimes use the same tank if its a good fit in your existing model, .just get a red petrol bung to replace the old black one and get a felt bung to eliminate foaming pick up problems .For Ignition Power DC 4.8 Volts (4 cell NiCad or NiMh battery) and switch (don't go over 4.8 volts) good luck with it .

Coco wrote:

I'm thinking of going for the ngh for ease of conversion.
So apart from a new tank and fuel lines, do I need opto switch and will I need anything else.

Keep it simple Brett......No fancy "Opto switch" just a mechanical switch (as per your radio) on the side of the model and set up throttle linkage so you can fully shut carb with "Throttle Cut" facility on your Tx.

Avoid plugging anything to do with the engine into the receiver except for throttle servo and use a non-conductive push rod to operate the throttle.
Also, if possible, keep ignition unit/battery/switch at least 100mm(4") away from receiver.

Finally, don't skimp on oil price. A litre of 20-25 quid oil will last two seasons (at least) and your engine will last forever! Belray H1R, Silkolene fully synthetic are good although Belray is a little difficult to get hold of (try Motors & Rotors). The 3W synthetic oil is tops for a completely clean model, but can only be used on a run-in engine.

Plenty of "Sparky" flyers in the club, so any more questions.....Just ask!

Ian metioned to check clearance of the front carb on the cowl looks like it will be tight so i'm going for the mintor.

Brought a Mintor 33 from Area 51 distribution
Happy days.

Have just had a read of the report for this engine, sounds OK especially as they supply the second piston so that the head can be rotated. plus not a bad price as well.